The End

This trip has been an incredible experience all around but this blog has helped me to focus on certain aspects of Rome that otherwise i might not have been able to experience. First was the Colosseum.
From the first time that I saw this massive structure I was dumbfounded. I fell in love with not just the structure itself but also the story behind it. After visiting it during all different hours of the day and night I feel like the Colosseum has become a part of me. It sounds strange and far fetched but by spending as much time there as I have I became attatched to the architecture. Once that point was reached I began to see the Colosseum as something completely different. I experienced it as a native Roman might. I stopped being effected by the building itself and began to see the people that milled around outside. My focus changed and the subject of the Colosseum became about culture of both the American tourist and the local Italian.
This quest for culture followed me into my decision making for broadening one of my topics from one Piazza (Campo De' Fiori) to Piazza's in general. I am very glad that I made this change. After I opened myself up to writing about all Piazza's in Rome I found myself visiting more Piazza's than I otherwise would have. I found that as I visited more Piazza's I realized what each one was about and that each area serves different purposes at all times of the day and night. These ancient fields and pastures have transformed into cultural and social epicenters that I think should be more prevalent in the United States.
The final topic that I had for this blog was experiencing Roman streets. This was by far my favorite topic and the one that kept me interested at literally every turn. The streets here are so unique compared to any city in the United states and only vaguely similar to streets that I have been on in other European cities. What sets these streets apart cannot be narrowed down to just one thing, as my blog clearly illustrates. There is a culture about the streets in Rome that really just fits. Throughout the course of this trip I have found that the culture here breeds the streets and the structure of the streets breed the culture. This symbiotic relationship between people and the spaces that they live is unlike anything that can be found in America. People and places try to imitate this overall feeling but nothing can compare to the real thing.

Tour of Doria Pamphilj

I have previously written a blog about a gallery that I would like to visit and last week we were given the opportunity to experience Doria Pamphilj on our own. Aside from the actual apartments that the family actually used I found the most fascinating thing about the gallery were the portraits of Pope Innocent X. It seemed like this man was idolized by not just himself but by his family for generations upon generations.
Two of the most incredible pieces in the Pamphilj collection were the two busts of Innocent X done by Bernini and the large portrait painted by Valazquez. The portrait is one of the most famous portraits in the world and for me it was especially cool to see because I have seen it so many times previously in textbooks. The two busts of Innocent X were more interesting because of the story behind them. Bernini was commissioned to create the bust of the pope and days before he was scheduled to give the Pope the finished bust his chisel slipped and half of the head was knocked off. Bernini promised the pope that he would produce an exact replica in a weeks time and he kept his word. Not one detail was lost and even the half undone button can be seen by a careful eye.

Student Designed Walk

This morning we did the morning version of an Italian bar tour. Our walks theme was coffee bars and it was led by Carly, though the walk actually combined several of our ideas into one. The most interesting thing about today's walk for me was the first stop, Campo De' Fiori. Here we got to see the very first stages of the morning market. When I arrived at the market there were still people setting up their shops and getting ready for a morning of bartering. The coolest part about this scene for me was watching the different vendors interact with each other. These people probably see each other every day and they all interact like they are one big team. Each vendor has certain competition in the market but if there is something that one needs, like change for a bill, the other vendors are more than willing to accommodate them. It is a system of fellowship that i haven't seen anywhere else.

Circus Maximus

As you walk past the Colosseum and around the Paletine hill, you come to one of my favorite places in Rome, the Circus Maximus. This enormous ovular field was once the sight of ancient Chariot races. Today you can still see the "track" that was used and at one end ancient bleachers are still intact. Unlike the Colosseum which had a fixed capacity, Circus Maximus could be filled with over 100,000 people at a given race. This was due to the ability the people had to view the races from a distance and from atop the surrounding hills.
Standing in the bottom of this track you can feel the size of it and it made me wonder, "how fast could I run around this track if i was being chased with a man in a Chariot throwing spears at me."

Streets-Finding Shade

As summer progresses and our trip nears the end, the temperature is rising. The heat can be overwhelming at times and my sweat glands have been working overtime. When walking the streets in the sun it is crucial to find whatever shade that the short buildings can provide. I have found myself taking abnormal routes to wherever I am going to ensure that I avoid streets where that the sun completely engulfs. This game is an interesting one because as the day progresses the shade moves and shifts making each turn all about timing. The good thing about the quest for shade is that it has opened me up to parts of the city that I might never have seen otherwise.

Piazza del Popolo

This piazza is definitely one of my favorites. As you enter the piazza from either the Corso or from the Spanish Steps you are greeted by one of the largest obelisks in Rome. The base of the obelisk contains four fountains of lion like creatures spurting water from their mouths. To the right is the bottom of the Borghese hill, which in the daytime is one of the most beautiful places in all of Rome. Santa Maria del Popolo is, in my opinion, the most interesting church in the piazza although there are three others. I visited Santa Maria del Popolo again today to view the two Caravaggio's that are hung there. When I entered the church I accidentally walked in on a mass. I decided to stay and receive communion here and I actually felt like I belonged. The combination of the Piazza and the church makes this area unforgettable.

Streets of Amsterdam

Amsterdam is unlike any city I've ever been to. One aspect of the city that sets it apart from others are its street. Most streets are paved but as you get closer to the city center the ground turns to a tightly laid cobble stone. What is most unique though are the rivers and canals that are streets in and of themselves. These "streets" are traversed by small motor boats or canoes, though, neither are allowed to make wake. This makes travel along the canal streets slow and rather relaxed. The canals provide a much different pace than the bikers that nearly knock you over at every intersection.

Colosseum from a distance

From the corner of Fiori Impaeriale standing to the left of the capitol, you can get an incredible view of the Colosseum. As you walk down this street toward the ancient arena you can really sense what it was like for tens of thousands of people to walk the same path on their way to watch a bloodbath. This road reminds me of Curtin Road or Park Ave at school. During a football weekend these streets are completely filled with people wearing hats and t-shirts supporting their team. People would walk down the street and pass monuments like East halls on the left and the BJC on the right. This scene is a little different than walking with an ancient Roman market on the left and the Forum on your right. I'm not sure which I prefer.

3 Places - Map - Descriptions

The first stop on this walk is Campo De' Fiori. It would be best to visit this Piazza in the morning between eight and eleven. This is when the open air market takes place. It can be an overwhelming experience if you aren't prepared to barter and argue over the price of a piece of fruit.
The second stop on the walk is Piazza Navona. This is the largest Piazza in Rome and was designed by Bernini. The focus of the Piazza are its fountains, the largest being Fontana dei Quattro Fiumi which holds a large Egyptian Obelisk. Good restaurants and artists become more prevelent as you walk from south to north.
The final stop is Piazza della Rotunda. This piazza contains one of the oldest and most visited sights in Rome, the Pantheon. The piazza is a great place to enjoy ancient art and architecture but also a bustling social scene. Each cafe has an umbrellaed patio in front of them. These provide a nice place to enjoy a glass of wine and marvel at the Catholic converted Pagan temple that dominates the space.

Map - Directions Three Piazzas

Begin at Area Sacra Argentina. Looking across the street at Antica Erboristaria Romana turn left down Corso Vittorio Emanuele II. Pass by Piazza San Pantaleo and turn left at Museo Barracco. Continue straight and enter Campo De Fiori.
After you explore this space for a while, go back down the road you came in on and cross over Corso de Vittorio Emanuele and walk through Pza. San Pantaleo. Don't get hit by a car. Continue past Museo di Roma and enter the south end of Piazza Navona.
After you feel that you have had enough of this Piazza walk to the middle fountain (Fontana dei Quatro Fiumi) looking at the Brazilian Embassy turn around and walk across Corso del Rinascimento. Continue straight down Via Giustinani passing Antichita Tanca on your left and enter Piazza della Rotunda. The Pantheon will be on your right.

Colosseum Russian Ritual

So after the first time that I ever went inside the Colosseum I am choosing to blog about what happened outside of it instead. As my friends and I exited the Colosseum we saw some women dressed in strange costumes. As we neared we noticed that they were no older than 17 and they had two young boys near them dressed in even more extravagant attire. The next thing I knew people began to clap and shout. This was some sort of signal for the young boy who jumped out into the middle of this human made circle and began to “dance.” This dancing was more of a rigid jumping and stomping, paired with sharp precise movements of his hands and arms. One girl joined him but her dance was a slow majestic movement, the exact opposite of the boy’s. I labeled these people as Russian but I honestly don’t know where they could have been from. The dancing lasted about 10 minutes with several partners taking part. I want to assume that this was a wedding, a communion, a confirmation, or something else but to do that would be an insult to a culture that I know nothing about. Maybe it was just a formal way of picking up girls. If that was the case, I have a lot to learn.

Piazza Navona

We walked to meet a fellow student at his apartment and entered the south end of Piazza Navona. As we walked down the street I noticed a large ball that was black on top and had light pouring out of the bottom of it. We neared and saw a large crowd gathered underneath. I realized that this was undoubtedly another movie set for Angels and Demons. Maybe it was the three glasses of wine in me or the excitement about being this close to Ron Howard or the conversations I had had with my roommates just hours before about his show Arrested Development, or a combination of all of them, but whatever the reason I took it upon myself to ask, politely ofcourse, about when the show would be coming back. I yelled to Mr. Howard “Bring back AD,” to which he responded “What? I can’t hear you.” I then said “Arrested Development, it’s Awesome, bring it back man!” he replied “We are trying, we have a movie in the works.” This conversation was brief and answered all the questions I had regarding Ron Howard and the show, and I am sure said a lot about a 20 year old college kid in Rome. Hopefully he thought of me as a diehard fan and not a rude American jackass. I wouldn’t be surprised by either though.

Soccer in the Streets

As I walked back from the bingo hall after a short stay and a loss of 5 Euro this afternoon, I took the back route back to my apartment. As I got to the top of a hill I saw 5 men presumably between the ages of 40 and 50 playing an interesting game in the streets. Like I did when I was ten years old these men kicked a soccer ball as hard as they could in the direction of a garage. The opening to the garage was defended by one of the men and behind him was a car, a Fiat to be specific. As I neared the men I realized that this wasn’t just any garage, it was an auto body shop and they were all employees of it. I wonder if anywhere in America I will see 5 grown men kicking a soccer ball at a car that they are being paid to fix. I then wonder that if that did happen how quickly a lawyer would be on a phone and a lawsuit filed. Only in Rome.

Piazza Della Rotunda - Angel's and Demons

As we walked away from class on Monday we walked by a few vans that had video equipment. My roommates and I were curious about this and followed the row of vans into Piazza Della Rotunda. As we entered the Piazza the first thing i noticed was a crowd of people standing on the steps of the Pantheon and other crowds of people enclosing the fountain and obelisk in the middle. What they were enclosing was another group of people that looked somewhat normal but were all standing still. What was most noticeable about these people wasn't their lack of motion, but rather, the people themselves. I realized that this was a movie scene and it became apparent that religion was a predominant undertone. This was due to the fact that about fifty percent of the people in the portion of the Piazza that was being filmed were dressed in religious garb, either nuns, priests, or monks. This was nothing like the Piazza I was used to seeing and it was a little dis-heartening.
I asked someone what movie was being filmed here and the answer came back Angels and Demons. I was shocked at first and then the scene made complete sense. The book is all about religion, obelisks, Bernini and the city of Rome. The director, Ron Howard, wants to portray Rome as the Holy city, which it is, but I already noticed that he may be going over the top. Seeing the scene as it will appear in the movie is nothing like the Piazza Della Rotunda that I am used to.
After getting over the shock and awe of my first encounter with a movie set, I walked up toward the tents where actual production was taking place. Here I saw Tom Hanks and Ron Howard having a discussion about the scene they were shooting. This was a cool experience, I had the urge to yell "Ruuunnn Foooorrrrreesssst" but I reluctantly held back.

Piazza Della Rotunda - Angel's and Demons

Boy's Town - before - sports

Boys town is a community of orphans from all over the world who, for the most part, govern themselves and have the ability to participate in several "normal" activities. Some of these activities include model building, computer programming, ceramics, and sports. After reading through the boys town website I found that they have a strong history of being very successful in sports, soccer in particular. As a former highschool soccer player I am very interested to see these kids in action. I will hopefully get to see a practice or game and maybe even jump in and see if I can keep up. Doubtful, but maybe I will at least provide some entertainment if not talent.

Ostia Antica - Theater

The theater at Ostia Antica was more than a place, it was an experience. This space was designed by and for Romans who lived in the suburb on the Tiber river. There would be plays, operas, and other forms of entertainment that used the stage. The first three rows were made of white marble and were reserved for the "higher-ups" in the Ostian society. What was most interesting about the theater, though, was the feeling I got when I was sitting there. As I sat there I watched a group of ballet dancers practice a performance that probably would be put on for a public audience later that night. As I watched I thought of how many people and cultures had preformed on that very stage over the thousands of years of its existence. I wonder for how many more centuries this place will be dedicated to entertainment.

Italians at the Colosseum

Having written about some of my experiences at the Colosseum, the appearance of some other "tourists," and the presence of the Roman soldiers, I thought it would be interesting to observe native Italians react to the structure. The most obvious reaction to the Architectural masterpiece from an Italian is no reaction at all. As I looked to try and pin a person as Italian, much as I have been pinned as an American from first glance, I was able to key in on their actions. Italians at the Colosseum are one of three things, annoyed at people trying to cross the busy Via Dei Fori Imperiali, struggling to navigate the hoards of people on their way to lunch or work, or ignoring the building and completely focusing on the tourists as they tried to sell products or services.
There was one notable exception to this and that was a father with his son. The boy looked to be about 8 years old and the father no older than 40. The boy was wearing a Totti jersey which was my first tip-off that they might be Italian. I wanted to make sure that they were Italian and walked by them to see what language they were speaking. Sure enough in thick Italian accents the Father spoke to his son pointing and gesturing. They were obviously from a different part of Italy and it looked like this was the first time the boy had seen the Colosseum in person. I could relate to this much more than the surprise I got when I saw how indifferent most Romans are to the building. It made me think of how in the US when I visit a new city or monument I am just as much of a tourist as the Japanese family standing next to me. It was interesting to see that Italians do appreciate the monuments that dot the city just as much maybe even more than i do.

Piazza Espagna

Wednesday night my roommates and a few friends went to Piazza Espagna and the Spanish Steps. Even for a Wednesday the stairs were rather full of people and definitely filled with life. The atmosphere was jovial and there were several people having different conversations about their day, about what they were doing later, and about the upcoming weekend. One person was playing the guitar and the ambiance was enjoyed by everyone on the stairs. Two police officers patrolled, more like stood and talked amongst themselves, and observed the area from the second landing on the stairs. Within ten minutes of our arrival when we had just settled down to enjoy a bottle of wine the officers approached the man playing the guitar. The man stopped playing and just as the polizia told him he could not play the guitar anymore the whole population on the stairs began to boo. The officers ignored this completely and told the man he had to stop playing. I still have no idea why there was no music allowed. Was it because the songs annoyed the officers? Was there a complaint from one person? Is drinking alcohol on the stairs more legal than playing the guitar? I have no idea but whatever the reason the policy made the officers the most unpopular people in the Piazza.

Virgin Mary's everywhere!

In the United States there are some ridiculous things that are bought and sold every day on E-bay. Some of the most absurd things that are actually purchased are items of food or certain materials that are said to contain the image of the blessed Virgin Mary. Some of these things include pieces of toast, a picture of spaghetti-o's or a ketchup stain on a piece of cloth. Some would claim that the Virgin Mary can appear anywhere, but the cynic would claim that everywhere, is now becoming anywhere. Personally I would believe that if the Virgin Mary wanted to appear to someone it would be in a church or holy place, but maybe the only way she can get noticed in our American culture is on a 2000 calorie burger bun, but I digress.
In Rome the Virgin Mary, is literally everywhere and on every street corner, or so it seems. The first few nights here my roommates and I noticed a flashing light over a hole in a wall near our apartment. We didn't think much of it at first but wondered why the light was there and why it could be flashing. A week later I saw the place during the day and realized that the hole in the wall actually contained a small white statue of the Virgin Mary. After noticing this one statue more and more began popping up everywhere I went. The blessed Virgin is an icon here maybe like nothing else, not even Jesus and his cross. She is usually tucked in a small alcove of her own high in a wall in seemingly random places all along narrow streets. But the one thing that they all have in common is that there is always a light shining on the Virgin so that she is noticed by anyone walking by and not made up by a money starved person praying on the blind faith of a grilled cheese eating America.

Walk to Santa Maria Sopra Minerva

As you look at Piazza Cinquecento from the front of the Termini train station go left down Via Cavour. Follow this road to the end where it intersects Via Dei Fori Imperiale. The Colosseum is on your left and the Forum will be directly in front of you. Go right down Via Dei Fori Imperiale. Pass Piazza Modonna di Loreto on your right and Piazza S. Marco on your left. Continue straight down Via del Corso. Turn left at Via Lata into Piazza Colegio Romano. Galeria Doria Pamphilj will be on your left. Continue straight down Vcia Pie' Di Marmo and Via D. S. Caterina De Siena. This leads you into Piazza Della Minerva with Santa Maria Sopra Minerva on your right.

Santa Maria Sopra Minerva is a good example of Gothic Architecture in Rome. It is built on ancient ruins that are thought to be the ancient temple of Minerva. The church contains many tombs created in different styles and constructed in different time periods. Two noteworthy objects are "The Risen Christ" and "The obelisk of Santa Minerva." The "Risen Christ" was begun by Michelangelo and the base of the obelisk, and elephant, was sculpted by Bernini.

Walk to the Forum

As you look out at Piazza Cinquacento, in front of Termini train station, go left down Via Covour. Walk four blocks and you will see Santa Maria Maggiore on your left. As you continue on Via Covour you could take a detour down Via Eudosiana and see Michelangelo's Moses in San Pietro in Vincoli. Continue to follow Via Couvour until you intersect Via Dei Fiori Imperiale. The Colosseum will be directly down to your left and the Forum is across the street directly in front of you.

The Forum is the place where ancient Roman culture, government, and trade came together. Some notable objects in the Forum are the Arch of Septimius Severus and the Rostrum. The Rostrum is where all major speeches in the Roman Government were given. This makes it the place where Marc Antony gave his famous speech after the assassination of Julius Caesar. The Arch of Septimius Severus is hard to miss and is celebrates his accession.

Go to EUR - Esposizione Universale di Roma

This new suburb south of Rome was built as a tribute to Fascism. It was constructed in the 1930's and the exhibition was planned to take place in 1942 but was delayed because of World War II. The sight was never used as it was intended but now holds several museums and government offices. Visitors today can expect to see examples of Fascist Architecture. This includes striking use of white marble, large fountains, and large scale monuments to the old style Rome. The dominating building in this space, the Palazzo della Civilta del Lavoro, resembles the style of the Colosseum. Although it is a taller square building, the Fascist architects kept the traditional style of arches throughout the structure. Another noteworthy building in the EUR is the Museo della Civilta Romana. This structure is actually two buildings linked by a portico, which is meant to represent ancient Roman history and the development of architecture. Inside the museum you will find a large model of ancient Rome, as well as a planetarium. Further to the south you will see the large Palazzo dello Sport which was built for the Olympics in 1960.

The museum is open Tuesday through Sunday from 9 a.m. to 1:30 p.m. but call ahead of time to double check and expect a moderate entrance fee.

To get to the EUR start from Termini train station. Take Linea B metro line to one of three stops. You can get off at EUR Magliana, EUR Palasport, or EUR Fermi. If you are not much for trains, take a bus. From Termini you can take the 714 bus to EUR.

Contributing group members: Brian McDonald, Shane St. Esprit, Dom Cifelli, Josie Moore, and lazy group member number 1 (Jenny Biedendorf)

Sidewalks

At home I am used to sidewalks that accommodate thousands of people on game days, tents for hot dog vendors, spill over from popular bars, and whatever else can fit that particular space. This environment leads the casual walker to focus not on their next stop or what they may be coming from behind them, but rather, on a text message, a sandwich or a friend. In Rome, though, the concept of sidewalks is a little bit different.

Here, for the most part, there aren't sidewalks at all, and if there are, they definitely do not cater to the pedestrian. Since the streets are so narrow, the sides of them are used for Vespas as parking spaces and single file wall hugging walkers. This design leads requires pedestrians to have boyscout like readiness every step of the way. I have almost been clipped three times and found myself apologizing more than the driver of said Vespa. The driver, instead, looks at you like you committed a crime against humanity, shakes their head, and jets away.

Colosseum's Roman Soldiers

At any historical monument in Rome you are likely going to see at least one man dressed as a Roman Soldier. At the Colosseum, though, you will find dozens. These men will do anything that you please, in a photographic sense, to get a tip. Whether it is balancing a woman on a knee, flexing with some adolescents, or poking fun at people in wheelchairs, there are no boundaries.

The best part about these characters is their attitude. Every "Roman Soldier" I have seen looks like they are having the time of their life. They entertain tourists all day long and make some money doing it. Ironically, the men they represent would have been more likely to kill the tourists than to let them "paint" a picture of them. But hey, it's 2008 and Roman Soldiers are "in" again, where do I sign up?

Sounds of Vendors-Piazza Della Rotunda

While I sat in front of the Pantheon, I was quiet and took in the sounds of my surroundings.I was immediately drawn to the sound of two metal objects clinking together followed by a ringing noise that lasted a couple of seconds before ending. This repeated a few seconds later. I found the source of this annoyance to my left. It was a man with a bag of variety products available for purchase. The actual noise came from two magnets that, when thrown in the air, defied everything but common sense and came clinking together. Then as the magnets were in the air they spun for a second or two producing the ringing noise. The magnet is then caught and the incredible act is repeated again in case anyone happened to miss it the first 12 times.

Instead of being annoyed by this desperate attempt to make money, tourists with young children should say thank you. By demonstrating how annoying this simple toy is, the vendors allow parents to get a mental image of the next two hours after they buy that product. Images of themselves ripping the magnets out of their kids hands and throwing them as far away as possible. This image makes saying no to the child a little easier. And, thanks, to the vendors partner (in crime) ten feet away, the parents can avoid that ever present temptation to buy a bubble blower that makes a siren noise as it shoots bubbles in people's faces downwind. I think the vendors need a knew business strategy, maybe selling ear plugs to everyone who doesn't buy their noisy toys.