The End

This trip has been an incredible experience all around but this blog has helped me to focus on certain aspects of Rome that otherwise i might not have been able to experience. First was the Colosseum.
From the first time that I saw this massive structure I was dumbfounded. I fell in love with not just the structure itself but also the story behind it. After visiting it during all different hours of the day and night I feel like the Colosseum has become a part of me. It sounds strange and far fetched but by spending as much time there as I have I became attatched to the architecture. Once that point was reached I began to see the Colosseum as something completely different. I experienced it as a native Roman might. I stopped being effected by the building itself and began to see the people that milled around outside. My focus changed and the subject of the Colosseum became about culture of both the American tourist and the local Italian.
This quest for culture followed me into my decision making for broadening one of my topics from one Piazza (Campo De' Fiori) to Piazza's in general. I am very glad that I made this change. After I opened myself up to writing about all Piazza's in Rome I found myself visiting more Piazza's than I otherwise would have. I found that as I visited more Piazza's I realized what each one was about and that each area serves different purposes at all times of the day and night. These ancient fields and pastures have transformed into cultural and social epicenters that I think should be more prevalent in the United States.
The final topic that I had for this blog was experiencing Roman streets. This was by far my favorite topic and the one that kept me interested at literally every turn. The streets here are so unique compared to any city in the United states and only vaguely similar to streets that I have been on in other European cities. What sets these streets apart cannot be narrowed down to just one thing, as my blog clearly illustrates. There is a culture about the streets in Rome that really just fits. Throughout the course of this trip I have found that the culture here breeds the streets and the structure of the streets breed the culture. This symbiotic relationship between people and the spaces that they live is unlike anything that can be found in America. People and places try to imitate this overall feeling but nothing can compare to the real thing.

Tour of Doria Pamphilj

I have previously written a blog about a gallery that I would like to visit and last week we were given the opportunity to experience Doria Pamphilj on our own. Aside from the actual apartments that the family actually used I found the most fascinating thing about the gallery were the portraits of Pope Innocent X. It seemed like this man was idolized by not just himself but by his family for generations upon generations.
Two of the most incredible pieces in the Pamphilj collection were the two busts of Innocent X done by Bernini and the large portrait painted by Valazquez. The portrait is one of the most famous portraits in the world and for me it was especially cool to see because I have seen it so many times previously in textbooks. The two busts of Innocent X were more interesting because of the story behind them. Bernini was commissioned to create the bust of the pope and days before he was scheduled to give the Pope the finished bust his chisel slipped and half of the head was knocked off. Bernini promised the pope that he would produce an exact replica in a weeks time and he kept his word. Not one detail was lost and even the half undone button can be seen by a careful eye.

Student Designed Walk

This morning we did the morning version of an Italian bar tour. Our walks theme was coffee bars and it was led by Carly, though the walk actually combined several of our ideas into one. The most interesting thing about today's walk for me was the first stop, Campo De' Fiori. Here we got to see the very first stages of the morning market. When I arrived at the market there were still people setting up their shops and getting ready for a morning of bartering. The coolest part about this scene for me was watching the different vendors interact with each other. These people probably see each other every day and they all interact like they are one big team. Each vendor has certain competition in the market but if there is something that one needs, like change for a bill, the other vendors are more than willing to accommodate them. It is a system of fellowship that i haven't seen anywhere else.

Circus Maximus

As you walk past the Colosseum and around the Paletine hill, you come to one of my favorite places in Rome, the Circus Maximus. This enormous ovular field was once the sight of ancient Chariot races. Today you can still see the "track" that was used and at one end ancient bleachers are still intact. Unlike the Colosseum which had a fixed capacity, Circus Maximus could be filled with over 100,000 people at a given race. This was due to the ability the people had to view the races from a distance and from atop the surrounding hills.
Standing in the bottom of this track you can feel the size of it and it made me wonder, "how fast could I run around this track if i was being chased with a man in a Chariot throwing spears at me."

Streets-Finding Shade

As summer progresses and our trip nears the end, the temperature is rising. The heat can be overwhelming at times and my sweat glands have been working overtime. When walking the streets in the sun it is crucial to find whatever shade that the short buildings can provide. I have found myself taking abnormal routes to wherever I am going to ensure that I avoid streets where that the sun completely engulfs. This game is an interesting one because as the day progresses the shade moves and shifts making each turn all about timing. The good thing about the quest for shade is that it has opened me up to parts of the city that I might never have seen otherwise.

Piazza del Popolo

This piazza is definitely one of my favorites. As you enter the piazza from either the Corso or from the Spanish Steps you are greeted by one of the largest obelisks in Rome. The base of the obelisk contains four fountains of lion like creatures spurting water from their mouths. To the right is the bottom of the Borghese hill, which in the daytime is one of the most beautiful places in all of Rome. Santa Maria del Popolo is, in my opinion, the most interesting church in the piazza although there are three others. I visited Santa Maria del Popolo again today to view the two Caravaggio's that are hung there. When I entered the church I accidentally walked in on a mass. I decided to stay and receive communion here and I actually felt like I belonged. The combination of the Piazza and the church makes this area unforgettable.

Streets of Amsterdam

Amsterdam is unlike any city I've ever been to. One aspect of the city that sets it apart from others are its street. Most streets are paved but as you get closer to the city center the ground turns to a tightly laid cobble stone. What is most unique though are the rivers and canals that are streets in and of themselves. These "streets" are traversed by small motor boats or canoes, though, neither are allowed to make wake. This makes travel along the canal streets slow and rather relaxed. The canals provide a much different pace than the bikers that nearly knock you over at every intersection.

Colosseum from a distance

From the corner of Fiori Impaeriale standing to the left of the capitol, you can get an incredible view of the Colosseum. As you walk down this street toward the ancient arena you can really sense what it was like for tens of thousands of people to walk the same path on their way to watch a bloodbath. This road reminds me of Curtin Road or Park Ave at school. During a football weekend these streets are completely filled with people wearing hats and t-shirts supporting their team. People would walk down the street and pass monuments like East halls on the left and the BJC on the right. This scene is a little different than walking with an ancient Roman market on the left and the Forum on your right. I'm not sure which I prefer.

3 Places - Map - Descriptions

The first stop on this walk is Campo De' Fiori. It would be best to visit this Piazza in the morning between eight and eleven. This is when the open air market takes place. It can be an overwhelming experience if you aren't prepared to barter and argue over the price of a piece of fruit.
The second stop on the walk is Piazza Navona. This is the largest Piazza in Rome and was designed by Bernini. The focus of the Piazza are its fountains, the largest being Fontana dei Quattro Fiumi which holds a large Egyptian Obelisk. Good restaurants and artists become more prevelent as you walk from south to north.
The final stop is Piazza della Rotunda. This piazza contains one of the oldest and most visited sights in Rome, the Pantheon. The piazza is a great place to enjoy ancient art and architecture but also a bustling social scene. Each cafe has an umbrellaed patio in front of them. These provide a nice place to enjoy a glass of wine and marvel at the Catholic converted Pagan temple that dominates the space.

Map - Directions Three Piazzas

Begin at Area Sacra Argentina. Looking across the street at Antica Erboristaria Romana turn left down Corso Vittorio Emanuele II. Pass by Piazza San Pantaleo and turn left at Museo Barracco. Continue straight and enter Campo De Fiori.
After you explore this space for a while, go back down the road you came in on and cross over Corso de Vittorio Emanuele and walk through Pza. San Pantaleo. Don't get hit by a car. Continue past Museo di Roma and enter the south end of Piazza Navona.
After you feel that you have had enough of this Piazza walk to the middle fountain (Fontana dei Quatro Fiumi) looking at the Brazilian Embassy turn around and walk across Corso del Rinascimento. Continue straight down Via Giustinani passing Antichita Tanca on your left and enter Piazza della Rotunda. The Pantheon will be on your right.

Colosseum Russian Ritual

So after the first time that I ever went inside the Colosseum I am choosing to blog about what happened outside of it instead. As my friends and I exited the Colosseum we saw some women dressed in strange costumes. As we neared we noticed that they were no older than 17 and they had two young boys near them dressed in even more extravagant attire. The next thing I knew people began to clap and shout. This was some sort of signal for the young boy who jumped out into the middle of this human made circle and began to “dance.” This dancing was more of a rigid jumping and stomping, paired with sharp precise movements of his hands and arms. One girl joined him but her dance was a slow majestic movement, the exact opposite of the boy’s. I labeled these people as Russian but I honestly don’t know where they could have been from. The dancing lasted about 10 minutes with several partners taking part. I want to assume that this was a wedding, a communion, a confirmation, or something else but to do that would be an insult to a culture that I know nothing about. Maybe it was just a formal way of picking up girls. If that was the case, I have a lot to learn.

Piazza Navona

We walked to meet a fellow student at his apartment and entered the south end of Piazza Navona. As we walked down the street I noticed a large ball that was black on top and had light pouring out of the bottom of it. We neared and saw a large crowd gathered underneath. I realized that this was undoubtedly another movie set for Angels and Demons. Maybe it was the three glasses of wine in me or the excitement about being this close to Ron Howard or the conversations I had had with my roommates just hours before about his show Arrested Development, or a combination of all of them, but whatever the reason I took it upon myself to ask, politely ofcourse, about when the show would be coming back. I yelled to Mr. Howard “Bring back AD,” to which he responded “What? I can’t hear you.” I then said “Arrested Development, it’s Awesome, bring it back man!” he replied “We are trying, we have a movie in the works.” This conversation was brief and answered all the questions I had regarding Ron Howard and the show, and I am sure said a lot about a 20 year old college kid in Rome. Hopefully he thought of me as a diehard fan and not a rude American jackass. I wouldn’t be surprised by either though.

Soccer in the Streets

As I walked back from the bingo hall after a short stay and a loss of 5 Euro this afternoon, I took the back route back to my apartment. As I got to the top of a hill I saw 5 men presumably between the ages of 40 and 50 playing an interesting game in the streets. Like I did when I was ten years old these men kicked a soccer ball as hard as they could in the direction of a garage. The opening to the garage was defended by one of the men and behind him was a car, a Fiat to be specific. As I neared the men I realized that this wasn’t just any garage, it was an auto body shop and they were all employees of it. I wonder if anywhere in America I will see 5 grown men kicking a soccer ball at a car that they are being paid to fix. I then wonder that if that did happen how quickly a lawyer would be on a phone and a lawsuit filed. Only in Rome.

Piazza Della Rotunda - Angel's and Demons

As we walked away from class on Monday we walked by a few vans that had video equipment. My roommates and I were curious about this and followed the row of vans into Piazza Della Rotunda. As we entered the Piazza the first thing i noticed was a crowd of people standing on the steps of the Pantheon and other crowds of people enclosing the fountain and obelisk in the middle. What they were enclosing was another group of people that looked somewhat normal but were all standing still. What was most noticeable about these people wasn't their lack of motion, but rather, the people themselves. I realized that this was a movie scene and it became apparent that religion was a predominant undertone. This was due to the fact that about fifty percent of the people in the portion of the Piazza that was being filmed were dressed in religious garb, either nuns, priests, or monks. This was nothing like the Piazza I was used to seeing and it was a little dis-heartening.
I asked someone what movie was being filmed here and the answer came back Angels and Demons. I was shocked at first and then the scene made complete sense. The book is all about religion, obelisks, Bernini and the city of Rome. The director, Ron Howard, wants to portray Rome as the Holy city, which it is, but I already noticed that he may be going over the top. Seeing the scene as it will appear in the movie is nothing like the Piazza Della Rotunda that I am used to.
After getting over the shock and awe of my first encounter with a movie set, I walked up toward the tents where actual production was taking place. Here I saw Tom Hanks and Ron Howard having a discussion about the scene they were shooting. This was a cool experience, I had the urge to yell "Ruuunnn Foooorrrrreesssst" but I reluctantly held back.

Piazza Della Rotunda - Angel's and Demons

Boy's Town - before - sports

Boys town is a community of orphans from all over the world who, for the most part, govern themselves and have the ability to participate in several "normal" activities. Some of these activities include model building, computer programming, ceramics, and sports. After reading through the boys town website I found that they have a strong history of being very successful in sports, soccer in particular. As a former highschool soccer player I am very interested to see these kids in action. I will hopefully get to see a practice or game and maybe even jump in and see if I can keep up. Doubtful, but maybe I will at least provide some entertainment if not talent.

Ostia Antica - Theater

The theater at Ostia Antica was more than a place, it was an experience. This space was designed by and for Romans who lived in the suburb on the Tiber river. There would be plays, operas, and other forms of entertainment that used the stage. The first three rows were made of white marble and were reserved for the "higher-ups" in the Ostian society. What was most interesting about the theater, though, was the feeling I got when I was sitting there. As I sat there I watched a group of ballet dancers practice a performance that probably would be put on for a public audience later that night. As I watched I thought of how many people and cultures had preformed on that very stage over the thousands of years of its existence. I wonder for how many more centuries this place will be dedicated to entertainment.

Italians at the Colosseum

Having written about some of my experiences at the Colosseum, the appearance of some other "tourists," and the presence of the Roman soldiers, I thought it would be interesting to observe native Italians react to the structure. The most obvious reaction to the Architectural masterpiece from an Italian is no reaction at all. As I looked to try and pin a person as Italian, much as I have been pinned as an American from first glance, I was able to key in on their actions. Italians at the Colosseum are one of three things, annoyed at people trying to cross the busy Via Dei Fori Imperiali, struggling to navigate the hoards of people on their way to lunch or work, or ignoring the building and completely focusing on the tourists as they tried to sell products or services.
There was one notable exception to this and that was a father with his son. The boy looked to be about 8 years old and the father no older than 40. The boy was wearing a Totti jersey which was my first tip-off that they might be Italian. I wanted to make sure that they were Italian and walked by them to see what language they were speaking. Sure enough in thick Italian accents the Father spoke to his son pointing and gesturing. They were obviously from a different part of Italy and it looked like this was the first time the boy had seen the Colosseum in person. I could relate to this much more than the surprise I got when I saw how indifferent most Romans are to the building. It made me think of how in the US when I visit a new city or monument I am just as much of a tourist as the Japanese family standing next to me. It was interesting to see that Italians do appreciate the monuments that dot the city just as much maybe even more than i do.

Piazza Espagna

Wednesday night my roommates and a few friends went to Piazza Espagna and the Spanish Steps. Even for a Wednesday the stairs were rather full of people and definitely filled with life. The atmosphere was jovial and there were several people having different conversations about their day, about what they were doing later, and about the upcoming weekend. One person was playing the guitar and the ambiance was enjoyed by everyone on the stairs. Two police officers patrolled, more like stood and talked amongst themselves, and observed the area from the second landing on the stairs. Within ten minutes of our arrival when we had just settled down to enjoy a bottle of wine the officers approached the man playing the guitar. The man stopped playing and just as the polizia told him he could not play the guitar anymore the whole population on the stairs began to boo. The officers ignored this completely and told the man he had to stop playing. I still have no idea why there was no music allowed. Was it because the songs annoyed the officers? Was there a complaint from one person? Is drinking alcohol on the stairs more legal than playing the guitar? I have no idea but whatever the reason the policy made the officers the most unpopular people in the Piazza.

Virgin Mary's everywhere!

In the United States there are some ridiculous things that are bought and sold every day on E-bay. Some of the most absurd things that are actually purchased are items of food or certain materials that are said to contain the image of the blessed Virgin Mary. Some of these things include pieces of toast, a picture of spaghetti-o's or a ketchup stain on a piece of cloth. Some would claim that the Virgin Mary can appear anywhere, but the cynic would claim that everywhere, is now becoming anywhere. Personally I would believe that if the Virgin Mary wanted to appear to someone it would be in a church or holy place, but maybe the only way she can get noticed in our American culture is on a 2000 calorie burger bun, but I digress.
In Rome the Virgin Mary, is literally everywhere and on every street corner, or so it seems. The first few nights here my roommates and I noticed a flashing light over a hole in a wall near our apartment. We didn't think much of it at first but wondered why the light was there and why it could be flashing. A week later I saw the place during the day and realized that the hole in the wall actually contained a small white statue of the Virgin Mary. After noticing this one statue more and more began popping up everywhere I went. The blessed Virgin is an icon here maybe like nothing else, not even Jesus and his cross. She is usually tucked in a small alcove of her own high in a wall in seemingly random places all along narrow streets. But the one thing that they all have in common is that there is always a light shining on the Virgin so that she is noticed by anyone walking by and not made up by a money starved person praying on the blind faith of a grilled cheese eating America.

Walk to Santa Maria Sopra Minerva

As you look at Piazza Cinquecento from the front of the Termini train station go left down Via Cavour. Follow this road to the end where it intersects Via Dei Fori Imperiale. The Colosseum is on your left and the Forum will be directly in front of you. Go right down Via Dei Fori Imperiale. Pass Piazza Modonna di Loreto on your right and Piazza S. Marco on your left. Continue straight down Via del Corso. Turn left at Via Lata into Piazza Colegio Romano. Galeria Doria Pamphilj will be on your left. Continue straight down Vcia Pie' Di Marmo and Via D. S. Caterina De Siena. This leads you into Piazza Della Minerva with Santa Maria Sopra Minerva on your right.

Santa Maria Sopra Minerva is a good example of Gothic Architecture in Rome. It is built on ancient ruins that are thought to be the ancient temple of Minerva. The church contains many tombs created in different styles and constructed in different time periods. Two noteworthy objects are "The Risen Christ" and "The obelisk of Santa Minerva." The "Risen Christ" was begun by Michelangelo and the base of the obelisk, and elephant, was sculpted by Bernini.

Walk to the Forum

As you look out at Piazza Cinquacento, in front of Termini train station, go left down Via Covour. Walk four blocks and you will see Santa Maria Maggiore on your left. As you continue on Via Covour you could take a detour down Via Eudosiana and see Michelangelo's Moses in San Pietro in Vincoli. Continue to follow Via Couvour until you intersect Via Dei Fiori Imperiale. The Colosseum will be directly down to your left and the Forum is across the street directly in front of you.

The Forum is the place where ancient Roman culture, government, and trade came together. Some notable objects in the Forum are the Arch of Septimius Severus and the Rostrum. The Rostrum is where all major speeches in the Roman Government were given. This makes it the place where Marc Antony gave his famous speech after the assassination of Julius Caesar. The Arch of Septimius Severus is hard to miss and is celebrates his accession.

Go to EUR - Esposizione Universale di Roma

This new suburb south of Rome was built as a tribute to Fascism. It was constructed in the 1930's and the exhibition was planned to take place in 1942 but was delayed because of World War II. The sight was never used as it was intended but now holds several museums and government offices. Visitors today can expect to see examples of Fascist Architecture. This includes striking use of white marble, large fountains, and large scale monuments to the old style Rome. The dominating building in this space, the Palazzo della Civilta del Lavoro, resembles the style of the Colosseum. Although it is a taller square building, the Fascist architects kept the traditional style of arches throughout the structure. Another noteworthy building in the EUR is the Museo della Civilta Romana. This structure is actually two buildings linked by a portico, which is meant to represent ancient Roman history and the development of architecture. Inside the museum you will find a large model of ancient Rome, as well as a planetarium. Further to the south you will see the large Palazzo dello Sport which was built for the Olympics in 1960.

The museum is open Tuesday through Sunday from 9 a.m. to 1:30 p.m. but call ahead of time to double check and expect a moderate entrance fee.

To get to the EUR start from Termini train station. Take Linea B metro line to one of three stops. You can get off at EUR Magliana, EUR Palasport, or EUR Fermi. If you are not much for trains, take a bus. From Termini you can take the 714 bus to EUR.

Contributing group members: Brian McDonald, Shane St. Esprit, Dom Cifelli, Josie Moore, and lazy group member number 1 (Jenny Biedendorf)

Sidewalks

At home I am used to sidewalks that accommodate thousands of people on game days, tents for hot dog vendors, spill over from popular bars, and whatever else can fit that particular space. This environment leads the casual walker to focus not on their next stop or what they may be coming from behind them, but rather, on a text message, a sandwich or a friend. In Rome, though, the concept of sidewalks is a little bit different.

Here, for the most part, there aren't sidewalks at all, and if there are, they definitely do not cater to the pedestrian. Since the streets are so narrow, the sides of them are used for Vespas as parking spaces and single file wall hugging walkers. This design leads requires pedestrians to have boyscout like readiness every step of the way. I have almost been clipped three times and found myself apologizing more than the driver of said Vespa. The driver, instead, looks at you like you committed a crime against humanity, shakes their head, and jets away.

Colosseum's Roman Soldiers

At any historical monument in Rome you are likely going to see at least one man dressed as a Roman Soldier. At the Colosseum, though, you will find dozens. These men will do anything that you please, in a photographic sense, to get a tip. Whether it is balancing a woman on a knee, flexing with some adolescents, or poking fun at people in wheelchairs, there are no boundaries.

The best part about these characters is their attitude. Every "Roman Soldier" I have seen looks like they are having the time of their life. They entertain tourists all day long and make some money doing it. Ironically, the men they represent would have been more likely to kill the tourists than to let them "paint" a picture of them. But hey, it's 2008 and Roman Soldiers are "in" again, where do I sign up?

Sounds of Vendors-Piazza Della Rotunda

While I sat in front of the Pantheon, I was quiet and took in the sounds of my surroundings.I was immediately drawn to the sound of two metal objects clinking together followed by a ringing noise that lasted a couple of seconds before ending. This repeated a few seconds later. I found the source of this annoyance to my left. It was a man with a bag of variety products available for purchase. The actual noise came from two magnets that, when thrown in the air, defied everything but common sense and came clinking together. Then as the magnets were in the air they spun for a second or two producing the ringing noise. The magnet is then caught and the incredible act is repeated again in case anyone happened to miss it the first 12 times.

Instead of being annoyed by this desperate attempt to make money, tourists with young children should say thank you. By demonstrating how annoying this simple toy is, the vendors allow parents to get a mental image of the next two hours after they buy that product. Images of themselves ripping the magnets out of their kids hands and throwing them as far away as possible. This image makes saying no to the child a little easier. And, thanks, to the vendors partner (in crime) ten feet away, the parents can avoid that ever present temptation to buy a bubble blower that makes a siren noise as it shoots bubbles in people's faces downwind. I think the vendors need a knew business strategy, maybe selling ear plugs to everyone who doesn't buy their noisy toys.

Giordano Bruno

After visiting Campo De' Fiori several times and referring to the statue of Giordano Bruno as "the statue in the center of the square" on more than one occasion, I decided to do some research and find out more about it, and I'm glad i did. To summarize Dr. John J. Kessler, Bruno was the forgotten philosopher. He was born in Nola, Italy in 1534 and throughout his early adolescence he preferred to go against the grain. He studied to become a priest with the Monks of St. Dominco and began to question the teachings and push them farther. He asked questions that could not be answered and began to get in trouble for it. He ran away and for the next 3o years called several countries home. He had an extended stay in England though, and Henry II was one of his chief patrons. He studied and emulated the works of Aristotle and Copernicus and wrote about the unimaginable size of the Universe. His works suggested that a Universe of infinite size could not be controlled by a single God and that science does not explain revelation, two cornerstones of the Catholic Church.
Eventually, some speculate, that Bruno grew homesick and wanted to return home to Italy. This was obviously a foolish choice as at the time Italy and Rome in particular was the home of the Holy Roman Empire. That same year, 1593, charges were brought against him before the Inquisition in Venice. Rome, and the Vatican saw this heretic as a way to make an example of those who deny the teachings of Jesus Christ and had him sent there. From 1593 to 1600 Bruno was imprisoned and nothing is known of what happened to him during this time as the records from the Catholic Church, if any exist, have not been released.
Finally after a German writer Schoppious wrote about Bruno, Bruno was brought before the Inquisition again. He was given the opportunity to recant and refused. He was brought before the Grand Inquisitor on February 9, 1600 and received the punishment of death by burning at the stake. In response to the sentence Bruno is reported to have yelled and said "Perhaps you, my judges, pronounce this sentence against me with greater fear than I receive it." This didn't scare them and on Feburary 17, 1600 Bruno was burned alive in Campo De' Fiori.
During the revolutions that brought about the unification of Italy in the mid 1800's Bruno was "rediscovered" by his countrymen and his readings and his death was used as a symbol of strength against the Vatican. His statue was erected in the place of his death facing directly toward Vatican city. A kind of middle finger to the pope and the Inquisition that took his life and nearly erased him from the record books.
I found this story fascinating. In high school no one had ever told me the story of Bruno. We never really learned of his philosophy, only the more notable figures and scientists that led the renaissance such as Galileo and Copernicus. Bruno, though, influenced an entire population to stand up and Unite for the first time. Now that I know the whole story about Bruno I appreciate his statue much more and not as the place where young Italian guys try to pick up girls that walk by.

http://www.infidels.org/library/historical/john_kessler/giordano_bruno.html

Colosseum during Rush Hour

Today, Tuesday, we walked by the Colosseum on the way to a tour of two incredible churches, San Clemente and San Giovanni in Laterano. As we made our way back to the classroom from these churches at around 12:30 p.m. I got to witness one of the more entertaining aspects of the day, the swarming of the Colosseum by the stereotypical tourist. Disclaimer: before I start making fun of these people, please realize that I completely understand how incredible the Colosseum is and how worthy it is of the amount of attention it is given, and this is a generalization. With that said, some people/groups are hilarious. The typical tour group consists of about 20-40 slightly overweight middle-aged white people. Each group is led by a person holding a metal stick that has a handkerchief at the end of it and all are listening to portable headsets so they can hear the tour guide over the sound of vendors, traffic, and Polizia yelling at them to get the hell out of the street. As they walk the streets near the Colosseum they all have the most blank stares on their face as they listen to the ramblings on of a by the hour tour guide who realizes that the slower they walk the more money they will make. As the guides point at the incredible arches of the Colosseum, the group turns their back to the traffic they are blocking and everyone acts surprised when a motorbike scoots by nearly taking a fanny pack out in the process. Finally the group gets in front of the colossal structure and being so relieved to not have to worry about traffic begin chatting with each other in whatever their native language is completely ignoring the history directly behind them.

Road Construction

At home, in upstate New York, aside from school being out and grilling becoming popular, summer means road work. It is typical to see a road crew on every busy street at least one point in the summer in an effort to fix pot holes, repair pipelines that may have frozen etc. Today in Rome I saw a crew of three of four men doing "road work." Unlike at home where it is typical to see steamrollers, enormous dump trucks, and a crew of thirty to forty, here in Rome the crew had brooms, shovels, a wheelbarrow and a small van that was filled with sand. When I first came across the crew I wondered why such little equipment then i turned the corner and saw a pile of cobblestones and realized why. In order to repair anything under the surface of a street a crew has to first dig up several hundred cobble stones, repair what needs to be repaired and then manually replace each stone. The gaps are filled with sand and then pounded into place with a mechanical hammer to make certain they are secure. In this kind of heat I doubt the list of applicants for this job is very long.

German Beer

It may come as a surprise to everyone reading this, but yes i do occasionally indulge in alcoholic beverages. It may be the fact that I am a college student, go to Penn State, have an entirely Irish and German family tree, or a combination of the three, but whatever the reason for this trip I'm glad that can appreciate a good beer when I come across one. At school the beer scene is Natural Light and if you are really feeling crazy you might splurge on Yeungling. Drinking such a beverage in Germany, though, would be sacrilegious. Everywhere we went we were served different local beers that have between two hundred and three hundred year histories. Many places beer is cheaper than water bottles, although I would recommend equal portions of both, if that's what your into. Much like the bud and bud lights of America, there is a light and dark version of every beer in Germany. The light version of German beer though is still darker than anything available in a domestic beer in the States. After the food and beer that was available in Germany I think I will have to make a trip to Munich and Oktoberfest at some point in the not too distant future.

German Language Barrier

The biggest difference that I found between Rome and Germany, other than the obvious layout of the city, were the people and their communication skills. In Rome almost no one speaks English, and if they do it is broken and very difficult to understand. When you try to speak Italian though to a native speaker, they love it. Italians instantly put a smile on their face and try very hard to communicate with you using hand gestures, facial expressions, and nods. In Germany though, I got the impression that absolutely everyone spoke English, some better than others but everyone nonetheless. Furthermore, if you tried to speak German (which only one of the 4 of us traveling could do with any sort of assurance) the people would completely disregard it and speak to you in English anyway. I didn't like this that much. I think that half the fun of being in foreign places is the difficulty of being an American. As Americans we are so used to having things handed to us on a silver platter and when we have the difficulty of understanding someone else's culture, to me, it is refreshing. Other than that, everyone was very nice and helpful to us while we were there.

German Food

I have grown up eating variations of all food types including German. Since I am one quarter German in heritage some of the food that I had growing up was distinctly German, like sausage and sauerkraut. Once in downtown Frankfurt, though, I realized that the German cuisine I had grown up with was a far cry from what I was about to experience. We toured the city and ate about 5 meals a day because we wanted to eat as many native German meals that we could. The three varieties of German food that stood out the most were the sauerkraut, bratwurst, and schnitzel. Bratwurst was avaialable on many street corners and at tent vendors that popped up in markets all over the city. These sausages were prepared as if they were American hot dogs but were much different in taste, and dare I say much better. The schnitzel was more of a restaurant style meal. It is always breaded and fried and served with lemon. The portions were large and I ate all of it. Finally, the sauerkraut. I never thought that I would admit to enjoying cabbage of any variety, but this stuff blew my mind. Sauerkraut tasted incredible but like most of the German food that we ate, it was a little tough on the digestive system. Happy eating!

German Countryside

This weekend we traveled to Frankfurt, Germany. There was a whole lot that was different about this place from both home and Rome. The first thing that I noticed though was the countryside. Since we landed at an airport that was an hour and a half bus trip from Frankfurt we got a great opportunity to see the German landscape. It was completely covered in green and yellow. There were vast fields of green and many were covered in what seemed to be dandelions. This kind of reminded me of upstate New York, but instead of large mountains there were slow rolling hills and valleys that covered the landscape. A beautiful country.

Magic!

At Campo De Fiori, there is no shortage of entertainment or things to do. One of these forms of entertainment is an exciting magic show put on by a man wearing a sad excuse for a tupe and a big smile. He is a prop magician, card tricks are obviously below him, and his props are lugged around in a large green bag. Sometimes his props work and other times they don't. I'm not sure if the people watching him are amazed by his magic or amazed that he thinks he is tricking anyone. I tend to think it is the latter. The best part of the show though, comes at the end. After the oo's and ahh's are dulling down the magician goes in for the big finish. He looks around points at his head and pulls his hair off!! Truly amazing. Again he thinks no one could have possibly known he was wearing a piece. He then uses his magical hair to collect any amount of change that people are willing to give. I gave him an E for effort and went on my way.

Mark Twain's Colosseum

A lot of my inspiration for choosing the Colosseum as a destination to blog about came from the movie Gladiator. This film depicts Rome and the Colosseum as it would have appeared in the first century A.D. It shows the actual event of going to the Colosseum to be entertained by blood and death. After reading Mark Twain's description of the Colosseum and the reviews that he thinks would have been commonplace, I got the sense that he could have inspired the creation of Gladiator. Using words Twain was able to give me the sense that I was actually there and had seen the event that he was criticizing. This experience will be complete when I go back to the Colosseum and get to explore the space inside for myself.

Plants in the streets

Walking down a New York City street the scenery is that of glass and steal and seeing any type of plant life would be cause for celebration. Here in Rome though plant life and buildings are symbiotic. Each street in Rome has a different feel and appearance and many of them have abundant plant life. Seeing vines and flowers on the sides of buildings is a welcome sight. It makes you feel less like you are in a city of 4 million people and more like you are in your own home town. Along with the wild vines that cover sides of building there are small gardens on nearly every available balcony. People here seem to enjoy having things like fresh vegetables and natural flowers close by. This is a far cry from the typical Penn State balcony that may contain a grill, a "foldy" chair, and drunk kids.

CINQUINA!!

Last night my roommates and I got bored. You would think that in Rome that was impossible, but after a long day of walking and riveting discussion of timeless pieces of literature, coming back to an apartment that has no T.V. or internet is, sadly, a little bit dull. So we did what any other 20 year old college students would do in this situation, we went and played Bingo. We entered a room to glances and glares and glares of "Americano," but that didn't matter we had our game faces on and were ready to win some Euro. A man that looked in charge pointed us to a table that was occupied by two ladies. Big surprise, they didn't speak a word of English, so asking them how to play this Italian version of bingo was a little bit of a chore but we got the gist of it pretty quickly. We were given our bingo cards that had 15 numbers on them. If you get 5 of these numbers in one row then you yell Cinquina! and you win the cinquina minimum (in our case around 10 Euro). After someone gets cinquina they keep calling numbers until someone fills their card and yells Bingo! and that person wins between 50-150 Euro, depending on the number of players. A simple game and for one Euro a card it seemed like a bargain. After 5 games and Neanderthal like communication with the two women next to us (who we speculated were adult performers of some sort) something amazing happened. On card number six my roommate Jared who must have pleased the Gods earlier in the day, hit Bingo on the biggest pot of the day. He won 137 Euro and life was good. We celebrated with a plate of French fries and we returned for round two a few hours later where I lost my remaining 10 Euro. Money well spent.

Pantheon vs. Arlington National Cemetary

Class today got me to thinking about a possible comparison between the Pantheon and a monument in America. The one that made the most sense after today's discussion was Arlington National Cemetery. I feel that both spaces are a holistic representation of a culture's history as well as a place for individual recognition of people deemed worthy. The discussion of Raphael made me think of Jackie Kennedy. Not just anyone can be buried in the Pantheon and there are qualifications that need to be met in order to end up at Arlington. Both Raphael and Jackie Kennedy made it their dying wish to be buried in these historical places and both made history by being granted that wish.

Soccer match at Campo

Yesterday there was a Roma soccer game. The Roma team was away so naturally the entire city had to find an alternate way to watch the game. In America the answer to this dilemma is to go to a sports bar and enjoy a few beers in a large indoor area with a choice between 30 or more flat screen HDTV's to choose from. In Rome a popular place to watch the game is at Campo di Fiori. This square was transformed into a the mecca of Roma Soccer for those 2 hours that the game lasts. Unlike the American counterpart the bars that Roma fans attend are tiny. The one that I went to to watch the game had enough room inside for about 20 people. The rest of the audience was crowded outside standing or sitting on stools at tall tables. At this one bar there were about 150 people crowded around a 20-30 inch TV. There was a combination of cheering when Roma came close to scoring and Jeering when the other team committed a foul or a foul wasnt called. At the end of the first half a few men near the front of the crowd began a chant that turned to a song. Soon the whole 150 people joined in this cheer hoping to guide their team to victory.

Chess in the street

In New York City chess boards are incredibly common around several small parks and people are always waiting for a match. In Rome though, as I was out exploring, I came across a few older men playing chess in the middle of their street. Scooters slowed and turned to avoid them and no one batted an eye. I drew the comparison between the first 5 feet of a roman street and a stoop of an apartment building in any of the boroughs of NYC. This is a place where privacy and the public domain meet. A chess match or social interaction is common in this place and getting hit by a vehicle is far from a chief concern.

Colosseum at Night

On Friday two roommates and I visited several famous places in Rome at night. The most notable place we went was the Colosseum. This was the first time I had seen the structure at all let alone at night. It was incredible. There were very few people in sight but every arch of the building was well lit as if it was the place to be at night. I was able to appreciate the structure in silence without the ambiance of tour guides and ugly American tourists (hypocritical? maybe). As we walked around we speculated as to the general routine of a "fight day." We wondered if the ancient romans had similar game day routines as we did at Penn State. Was there tailgating with jugs of wine instead of kegs of beer? Did people sport different colored togas for their favorite warriors? Did they cheer for the lion as much as we do? It was cool to think that maybe these people weren't all that different from us. I wonder what an ancient roman would think if they saw Beaver stadium. I'm sure that if they attended a football game they would be bored out of their minds and wonder when the tiger would leap out from a trap door in the field to eat one of the players, or better yet one of those bias big ten ref's.

Drinking Water

The drinking water here is surprisingly good. I have grown up on a lake and it is famously one of the cleanest lakes in the world. As a result I have grown up with very good drinking water. This water has spoiled me and coming to Rome I expected to be disappointed. However, I was pleasantly surprised. Not only is the water good, it flows freely through the streets of Rome at different "watering stations" and fountains. Today i saw a local resident fill his water bottle directly out of a fountain. I haven't been brave enough to try that yet but the I have visited "The Buddha" near our classroom several times a day to fill up.

Old Lady

When I first checked in at the Sede Di Roma, I was given a set of keys, directions to my apartment, and a paper telling me my room number and address. On that piece of paper it said that we had apartment number 14. After an hour of trying to use a key (that looked like it might have been used to lock St. Peter to a stone in a basement) to open door number 14, I decided to knock on a neighbors door and ask for help. I went downstairs and heard the sound of a T.V. coming from apartment 9. I knocked, and knocked again. Someone from inside said "Queine?" which i presumed meant "Who is it." So, I said "Brian, Soy Americano." Nothing happened, so I went back upstairs to try the door again. Ten minutes later i decided to try my luck again. I knocked on the same door and to my surprise an elderly woman wearing a nightgown and a robe came to the door. I did my best to explain that I couldn't get into my apartment and that i needed help trying. She looked at me like I was carrying the plague and without making a sound she slowly backed up, closed the door, and locked her door (which was a thirty second ordeal as she had close to 5 different locks). After this I called the Sede and they came only to discover that my room was #15 not #14 as the sheet said. I have since seen this woman on the streets and in my building several times. I say hello to her whenever I see her, this time in Italian and I think she is beginning to realize that I may not be a carrier of a fatal disease after all.

Expensive

Since the American dollar is in the toilet, money is pretty tight. So, when i ventured to the Spanish Steps and its surrounding stores all i could do was laugh. I walked by stores that i would never shop at for myself let alone a girlfriend wife, sister or mother. These included but are not limited to, Louis Vitton, Giorgio Armani, Prada, Gucci, and Dolce and Gabanna (spelling?). These stores are out of my budget and if I happened to stumble in a store like that not knowing they were filled with overpriced products that would probably see as much of a closet as they would an arm or shoulder, I would know by looking at the price tag that it wasn't for me or for anyone I could be shopping for. But one store in this 5th avenue-esque part of Rome made me wonder what the world not just Italy is coming to. The name of the store was "Expensive." Who shops there? Is it a status thing? Do we really need to know how much people spent for their ugly bags? It used to be that you saw an L and V overlapping each other on a piece of fabric and you knew it was either fake or expensive (i personally cant tell), but putting the word 'expensive' right on the piece of junk seems a little excessive. Next thing you know there will be a store called "HEY LOOK AT ME I SPENT WAY TOO MUCH MONEY ON THIS"

Transportation

These cars are wild, and so are their drivers. In the states if I see a hummer taking up more than one parking space I would refer to the driver with any number of derogatory terms. Here I feel that Italians think similar thoughts of anyone driving a car that has more 2 doors or is longer than 6 feet in length. There tiny cars are parked anywhere there is just a little bit of space and some places where cars don't belong at all, like sidewalks. Crazier than the smart cars, and models like it, are the motor scooters. I was warned about these scooter drivers and their lack of concern for pedestrians let alone stop lights and traffic signals. I didn't think much of it until I was nearly hit by one crossing the street. That will wake you up in the morning. One of the most entertaining aspects of the motor scooter drivers is their derby style free-for-all at every green light. This occurs when the drivers snake their way through the cars to get to the front of the pack and when the light finally turns its thumb to the metal and they are off. Don't get in the way.

Ancient mall

I knew a fair amount about ancient Roman history before coming to Rome, and i knew that they were an incredibly advanced culture, but i never thought about their material necessities. Across the street from the forum is an ancient market place that the guide book says is the equivalent of a present day shopping mall. Looking at the structure you can imagine what it would be like to be a Roman walking from store front to store front buying whatever it is Romans bought. What did they buy? Lets speculate: Statues of favorite gladiators for kids, fresh vegetables, fish, togas, leather sandals, Egyptian cotton, goods from other parts of the empire...makes you wonder.

Don't be a Tourist in the Campo

Thursday night all of us went to dinner in Campo Di Fiori around 9:30 p.m. We went to one of the first places we saw that could accommodate about 20 people. It was a small restaurant with a lot of seating outside, it didn't look like they had the capacity to feed all of us but they were positive that they could. We sat ordered our meals (I ordered a simple pasta with sauce and basil) and drinks and waited, and waited. 30 minutes went by and some of the first meals came out. These plates were simple pastas and pizzas that looked and smelled very good. 10 more minutes and 5 more dishes came out, still no sign of my food. This is when i remembered that Italians don't have the same concept of time that we do. Thirty minutes later my meal arrived, overcooked and partially inedible. I payed 7 euro, said grazie and knew i should stick to the restaurants that the locals go to and stay out of the Campo for dinner.

Defacating on the Streets

Early on in our first orientation meeting we were told not to be loud obnoxious drunks during our stay in Italy, and that if we were the locals would look at us like we defacated on their street. What we didn't know was that the streets are already filled with fecal discharge of a different kind. Walking down most streets in Rome you need to keep one eye behind you so you don't get run over, one eye roaming so that you can take in all of culture around you and yet another eye on the ground so you make sure to avoid the dog feces that is scattered from street to street. So far I haven't been hit by a car/bike and have been appreciating my surroundings at all times. Unfortunately my feet have found the poop before my "third eye" has. There are dogs of all shapes and sizes in Rome and they leave behind a little piece of themselves wherever they go. This isn't surprising as they are animals, what I do find surprising thought is the response of their human owner. I haven't seen one owner with a little plastic bag as they walk their dog and absolutely no signs that encourage such maintenance.

The Streets Of Rome

Streets here are a far cry from the fast paced streets of New York City. The first major difference between the streets of New York and the streets of Rome are the colors. In NYC you are surrounded by dark steel sky scrapers and buildings at least 20 stories high. In Rome the streets are no taller than 6 stories (as mandated by law) and range in color from

The Forum/Colossium

The ancient romans had a sophisticated hierarchy of politics, social life, and a well developed judicial system. These aspects of human culture all convened on one area in ancient Rome, the Forum. The space known as the forum was a cultural mecca. It combined business with political life and was the epicenter of all things Roman. Today the forum does not look much like a place to do anything but climb on rocks and maybe kick a ball around the grass that used to be a marble floor. But, if you put yourself in the shoes of an ancient Roman the space becomes the home of the Marc Antony speech and formation of a system of politics that inspired our own forefathers. Either way it is much more impressive than the forum I am used to in State College.

Campo Di Fiori

The first experience I had with the campo was at night. The open square contains about 8 restaurants with enough room to have 6 tables inside and the rest (maybe 8-12) outside. All these menus had the exact same thing so making the decision on where to eat came down to price. The biggest surprise of the night came after dinner at the local bars. It turns out that these "bars" aren't so local. Everyone in the establishment was a loud American while the young Italian guys scoped out the scene from the bottom of a statue in the center of the square.